Whenever I’m in Budapest I make a point of going to Gerbeaud, not only for the coffee and confectionery mainly for the decor dating back a century and a half.
I imagine sitting at the same marble topped bronze tables, on the same Thonet bentwood chairs; touching the wallpaper, exotic wood paneling, furniture, looking up at the beautiful chandeliers and stucco ceilings that inspired the writers, painters, composers and statesmen of the nineteenth century.
One of the greatest and most traditional coffee houses in Europe, Gerbeaud House was established by Henrik Kugler in 1858. He created an ambiance that was the meeting place of the elite of Pest and to this day is a place to see and be seen.
He did most of the elegant interior design himself using the Roccoco style of Louis XIV for the ornate vaulted ceilings and chandeliers that were inspired by Marie Theresa of Austria, the drapes, floor to ceiling windows and gilded mirrors. Then in 1870 the coffee house was expanded by Emil Gerbeaud, hence the name.
After the years 1950-84 of neglect, in 1997 it was restored to its former glory.
Besides the delicious pastries and interior design, I think what set Gerbeaud apart from other coffee houses was the attention to detail: the lovely boxes and packaging and the stylish hospitality by waitresses dressed in traditional blouses, long skirts and aprons. This extends to how coffee is served in a dainty porcelain cup and saucer with a small silver spoon. It makes you feel like aristocracy.
It’s not to say that I am not tempted by their chocolates and luscious desserts.
The Esterhazy cake named after a Hungarian duke.
Dobos cake made famous by Hungarian confectioner Jozsef C. Dobos:
Note the emblem on the napkin as well as on the piece of chocolate.
The Gerbeaud flagship cake: ground walnut and jam in between layers of sponge cake and covered with chocolate.
And my all time favourite (when in season) is Gesztenye pure (chestnut puree) with whipped creme.
Special thanks to Budapest Travel Guide
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what a great post! I have a wonderful cookbook called Culinaria Hungary with pictures of Gerbeaud’s. I want to fly to Budapest just for such classic coffee houses. Great pictures!
I love Gerbeaud’s, less for the luscious Dobos torte as for the atmosphere, it’s like stepping back in time.
Lovely posts and pictures Judith! My husband and I are going to Budapest next week to celebrate New Year’s Eve. We’ll be sure to stop by Gerbeaud’s!
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